Finally got my act together and set the alarm clock to 9 am. So I would make the Rangitoto Ferry at 10.30. The weather looked ok, warm, with lots of clouds, maybe not the worst to hike up a volcano.

The Ferry took half an hour and let us ashore at Ragitoto‘s Ferry Terminal. I had packed some provisions, as there is nothing to buy on the island. Two liters of water (and Coke), baby carrots, some salads from the supermarket (which spilled its sauce into the plastic bag, soaking the banana and fruits… yum!).

Rangitoto is Māori for ‘Bloody Sky’, the full name of the island is Ngā Rangi-i-totongia-a Tama-te-kapua (‘The days of the bleeding of Tama-te-kapua’ – who was a chief of the first canoes to arrive in New Zealand).

The Auckland Museum has a nice exhibition about the Auckland volcanic field. Rangitoto was the biggest eruption in the field, ejecting over 2 cubic kilometers of matter, roughly the same amount as all other Auckland volcanoes combined in the last 250.000 years…

They say it’s unlikely this volcano will erupt again, but one day, another sure will.

 

The hike up to the crater takes about an hour, first on a slow rising slope, through light woods and many lava fields, still unclaimed by vegetation.

As the island is a geological newcomer with only about 700 years of age, it took vegetation some time to get a hold. Most historic paintings from the 19th century show a barren, rocky island.

Today it looks green, even lush, from the distance, but once you’re walking on there you realize how thin that fertile layer is.

The lava rocks are amazing. Dark, black, rugged and heavy! Even after 700 years, erosion does not seem to have nagged on them or softened their shape.

You have to take care to stay on the little path, and not run into the rocks. If you fall and scrape yourself on these rocks, the wound would be quite extensive.

The path slowly rises above the island, gaining some great views over Auckland in the distance and the gulf and its many islands in the other direction.

Closer to the cone, the forest gets more dense and you can walk in the cooler shadow. The rocks also change color, from the black-grey to reddish, rusty earthy colors.

All over you see some weird mouse traps. They try to keep the island rat-free, and you had to check your bags for mice, ants, reptiles and seeds before stepping onto Rangitoto.

Years ago, possums from adjacent Motutapu Island, now linked to Rangitoto by a small land bridge, invaded and started chewing away on the islands trees, killing them in the process. So they try to keep the rodents out and let the Island evolve naturally…

On top, you have a great view into the crater (but you cannot descend into it) and a nice walk around the rim, giving you a great view over the bay and Auckland… It was definitely worth the hike.

On my way down, I made a detour to the Lava caves. The way there was rough and rugged. Nothing for my shoes that are, I admit, not really made for hiking. I had left my more solid boots at home in Brussels, as the weight would just have been too much.

But on those rocks I cursed myself, my thin plastic soles with the disappeared profile giving me little hold, and I felt every rock under my feet.

The caves were spooky. I had no torch, and with those shoes and no discernible path through them I only walked a couple of meters into them. Last thing I’d need is to fall and break a leg in there…

The last ferry back on a week day is at 3.30, which seems a bit early. I had underestimated the time it actually takes to get up, and down again, trying not to slip on the gravel. I arrived on time though. Weekends see more ferries making the trip – but I also guess much more people.

I liked the silence that fell over they island from time to time, when you didn’t run into school kids on a hiking day. Boy, do these kids make noise or am I getting old?

I came home at about 4.30 and realized I was totally knocked out. It hadn’t felt that much of a deal during it, even though I climbed 260 meters in total.

And I thought my trip through the Canadian rockies with my Dad and Sabine last summer had prepared me, especially our hike up Tunnel Mountain in mid-day heat…